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May 21, 2002 Audubon’s Galveston
"Ah, my dear friend," he wrote in a letter to Reverend Bachman, "would that you were here just now to see the Snipes innumerable, the Blackbirds, the Gallinules, and the Curlews that surround us;-that you could listen as I do now, to the delightful notes of the Mocking-bird, pouring forth his soul in melody as the glorious orb of day is fast descending towards the western horizon;-that you could gaze on the Great Herons which, after spreading their broad wings, croak aloud as if doubtful regarding the purpose of our visit to these shores!" Galveston remains for me as beguiling as in Audubon’s age, a seductive ribbon of sand that still offers sanctuary to "the Snipes innumerable." This is not to say that contemporary Galveston resembles that described in Audubon’s letters. Yet nature often perseveres, retaining a toe-hold despite the shifting sands. In the past 150 years a city has arisen…a seawall constructed…a ship channel dredged. Yet the essence of Audubon’s Galveston remains, reflected in a birdlife that blankets the senses. In early April I conducted a series of workshops in Galveston to organize efforts there to promote nature tourism. Tourism has always been a primary industry on the island, from the red light district on Post Office street in the early 1900s to the Mardi Gras celebrations that continue to this day. Yet nature tourism has inexplicably received short shrift, and I spent a few days there trying to rectify that slight. What I soon learned is that I am not alone in my love of Audubon’s Galveston. A core group of Galveston residents is determined to preserve what remains of the island’s natural wealth, and to invite the public to experience Galveston’s nature for themselves. What has been missing has been a catalyst to force the desperate parts and interests into a cohesive whole. What has been missing is John James Audubon. As a result of my workshops, Galveston has begun to plan a festival that will celebrate his rich ornithological legacy. The festival, Audubon in Galveston, will commemorate both the science and art of the man who introduced the study of birds to Texas. Field trips will retrace his steps on Galveston, introducing the current generation of Galveston residents to the birds that so enthralled him those many years ago. As with Lewis and Clark, the key to understanding Audubon is through reconnecting with the birds and wildlife that remain today. Nature offers a direct link to the past, and these historical figures are best understood through the wildlife that first captured their imaginations. Although we can never share Audubon’s glimpse of Ivory-billed Woodpeckers along Buffalo Bayou, other birds he enjoyed such as Spotted Sandpipers and Northern Shovelers remain to this day. Audubon lives in the Long-billed Curlews probing for crabs on East Beach, in the Laughing Gulls chasing the Bolivar Ferry, and in "the delightful notes of the Mocking-bird, pouring forth his soul in melody." Fermata will post information regarding Audubon in Galveston as plans become firm. Trip du Jour, May 21, 2002
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